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Rohingya and The Courage of Migrants by George Packer | The Literati, In the summer of 1983, I made the rash decision to get on a small cargo boat in the port town of Victoria, Cameroon, and sail across the Gulf of Guinea to Calamar, Nigeria. My Lonely Planet guide to West Africa had misinformed me that a weekly passenger ferry made the same route. When I discovered that no such ferry existed, there wasn’t enough time to exit the country overland before my Cameroonian visa expired at midnight. At the dock, a forty-foot vessel called the Beg God, with a single outboard motor, a cargo of nails in wooden boxes, a crew of three or four young toughs, and a pilot named Abraham was leaving that night for Calamar. For a price that seemed extortionate, I would be allowed on board. Abraham wouldn’t say how long the trip might take. It was the height of the rainy season and the ocean was wild, with five-foot chop. I was twenty-two and didn’t think twice.

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